Tuesday, October 19, 2010

Sorrento & Positano - October 18, 2010

We’re happy to report that Sleepless in Sorrento didn’t have a sequel. We slept ok last night. Kelly started the morning watching Tom & Jerry while I showered. Those kids get into the same mischief in Italian. I think I had a quince at breakfast. The server said it was a cactus fruit, but it didn’t have the bumps so I doubt it. Regardless, it was tasty – kind of a hard pear/apple combo. There was a British couple sitting next to us and what an interesting conversation they started out with. Talking about needing some roughage. Super – here, gnaw on a prune. After breakfast, we wandered across the street to buy our ferry tickets to Positano. Yay! There’s a sailing today, but not until 11am. We hung about the pier and I went to play with the kitties again. There’s one teeny tiny little runt of the liter that’s about a third of the size of his brothers and sisters and only has half his tail. Not to mention he’s skinny as heck and has a bad infection in his right eye. I think he may be blind in that eye L Poor little guy! I want to take him home and nurse him back to health but mean Kelly won’t let me. Someone left some dry kibble for the cats today, which is good. All the cats could use a good dose of deworming though as they’re really thin. I want to take them all home.
At about 10:30 we wandered over to our dock only to be told that it was too rough out and there would be no sailing today. Boo! Well that wasn’t going to deter us. On foot we go back up the big hill to the town centre and from there, we’ll walk to the train/bus station. We head out in the right direction but then we walk off the map. Hmm, well, let’s keep going to the left. When we passed the garbage dump (Kelly takes me to the nicest places), I asked Mr. Mapquest if he knew where we were. Ah, no. I see. So when were you planning on telling that? You’re going to lose your Mapquest status, mister…. So Kelly asks a nice local where we are in relation to the train station. He points down the hill and says to turn left. Excellent. Off we go down the hill. When we get to the corner, no sign of the train/bus station or any signs. Mapquest asks another dude and he says we’re a block away. More excellent. And he was right. We got our bus tickets and now wait for the 12:15 bus. Time to find the washroom as those cappuccinos we had at breakfast are making me cross my legs. One problem, without a train ticket, you can’t use the washroom as it’s on that side of the tracks. Never thought that’s what it meant to be on the wrong side of the tracks. So to compound the problem, I suggest we had a beer while we wait. I never said I was smart. Kelly played some Italian slot machine at the station, but didn’t win.
We got on the packed bus to Positano and it’s amazing that the bus drivers can get through the narrow, windy streets. At one point, the bus coming toward us and our bus both were in a dead stop inching past each other – and they did it without hitting each other or any cars/scooters parked on the side of the windy cliff. I’ve noticed a lot more damage on the vehicles and scooters here than in Rome and the Romans drive a lot crazier. Mind you if you’re on a scooter here, the middle of the road is yours and you pass everybody. The near misses are common and don’t seem to faze the driver of the scooter or the vehicle.
We arrived in Positano to a beautiful, sunny day and headed down the hill to the beach – about a 15 minute walk. We picked a restaurant on the water, Ristorante La Pergola, and I left Kelly to order so those cappuccinos and beer could make a departure. You ha d to grab a swipe card from the hostess to use the washroom. So you’d think that the washrooms would be in good shape. They were clean, but without toilet seats. What the? Happy perching. I won’t bother telling you what we had for lunch as we didn’t switch it up today. After lunch Kelly went and stuck his feet in the Mediterranean. From the OH MY GOD look on his face, I’d say it was chilly. It started to cloud over as soon as we sat down for lunch and more clouds were rolling in. We walked into a few stores and I petted some more cats, but then decided to grab the next bus back as it looked like rain and we didn’t bring jackets. We had another downpour last night but luckily, we were back in the room by then. It reminds me of the monsoon rains in the Caribbean. We headed back up the hill and stopped to share a cannoli. Oh my, that was yummy! We grabbed our bus tickets and the next bus was coming at 3:10. It’s 3:00 now and we’re at least 300 yards downhill – haul ass baby! We got to the bus stop with 5 minutes to spare and I think I worked off my bites of the cannoli. 
We made it back to Sorrento and grabbed a bottle of Valpolicella and some bread sticks and headed back to the room. A little precursor to dinner.
We read about Il Buco, which is a restaurant in the basement of an old monastery. We didn’t have reservations so we could only sit outside in the courtyard. Still a nice, sort of private setting. They poured us each a glass of champagne and brought a mozzarella and ham taster. Very nice. The menu was either a set menu of 9, 6 or 3 courses or you could order off the menu. Kelly went for the 6 courses with an improvisation on the seafood choices. Are you ready for what he had? And just so you know, it wasn’t a tasting portion of the courses – they were full size dishes.  First course: buffalo mozzarella rolled in tomato bread crumbs and fried, fresh buffalo mozzarella with tomato, cheese mousse and cheese yogurt. Second course: Beef carpaccio and beef tartar with three different sauces. Third course: gnocchi with lamb ragu and sausage. Fourth course: Linguine with artichoke and lemon zest. Fifth course:  Chicken rolled around vegetables. Sixth course: Dessert – which was sort of like a bread pudding with vanilla ice cream and chocolate. Holy crap, that was a lot of food and all of it, delicious. I got a taste of most of it. I had a starter of calamari, which was so fresh and just drizzled with olive oil and placed on bread and tomatoes – apparently the way the old Romans ate it. Then I had seafood pasta which was lovely. We were serenaded by a guy with a lovely voice. He did three songs and I’ll let you guess what the last song was… yup, Whennnnn the moon hits your eye like a big pizza pie, that’s amore. You know that every English speaking person just loves that song. Right. We shared a bottle of Masi Amarone and other than the spillage I got on the table (whilst reaching for one of the 6 kinds of dinner rolls), we drank every last drop. Oh and before Kelly’s dessert arrived, they brought a taster of ricotta and chocolate mousse. Very nice. They brought us each a glass of chilled Limoncello and a plate with hazelnut brittle, chocolate cookie, chocolate cream puff and shortbread - just because we hadn’t eaten enough yet. Kelly ordered a latte and declared after dinner, “I don’t think I should have had that latte, I’m really full now”. Ya think? We walked the 173 stairs back to the hotel for the last time (yes, we counted them) and are heading to bed fat and happy. I’m writing this at 8:10am the following day and Kelly is still full. I may not have to feed him for the rest of the trip! I have no sense of what the day or date is, I just count sleeps in each hotel. There are three for each place except for Florence and we’re on number three in Sorrento so it must mean we depart tomorrow.

No comments:

Post a Comment